The Difference Between...
The Difference Between Fabric Chains and Quilt Shops
The following is taken from an article by Jim Salinas in the Winter 2000 issue of "Spools & Tools"
...His article takes some of the mystery out of fabric manufacture and why most quilters spend a little more for "quilter's fabric."
"Is there really any difference between the printed cotton found in chain store for $3.00 to $6.00 per yard and the printed cottons found in shops for $8.00 to $10.00? You bet there is, and understanding these differences is critical...
Premium brands, such as Moda, start with high quality griege goods (pronounced "gray," griege goods are unfinished fabrics in their raw state). Premium griege goods have a minimum of 60 threads on the warp and 60 threads on the woof. Many premium griege goods thread counts are higher than "60 square." Higher thread counts contribute to a silkier hand (feel), less bearding when quilted, increased longevity plus enhanced printing definition.
In addition to thread count, we have the issue of what diameter yarns are used in the griege good construction, the size of cotton filaments used, and the length of the cotton staple. As in all manufacturing, premium components cost more and add to the final cost of the product. The premium brands typically make use of a number of screens (the number of colors used in the print) and more complex engravings normally require using slower and more exciting flat bed presses than the high speed rotary presses used by the domestic mills on most chain store products.
Once the griege goods are printed, they have to be "finished". Finishing is a chemical bath that sets the dye into the cotton fabric. Unfinished goods or poorly finished goods bleed and have an extremely coarse and boardy hand.
As you might have guessed, premium brands are normally finished in a more time-consuming manner. This adds greatly to the silken hand of "quilter's grade" fabrics as well as superior color fastness. The long and the short of it, however, is that consumers do get what they pay for.
Quilt Shops versus Chain Stores for Fabric Selection
Recently our guild had a guest speaker, Bill Stewart, who is an independent fabric sales representative. He sells Alexander Henry, RJR, Hoffman, VIP and several other lines of fabric. He brought samples of many of his fabrics and the different grades of fabric he sells, and there is quite a difference when you have both there for comparison.
For instance, he had the quilter's grade of an Alexander Henry print which was absolutely gorgeous, vivid colors, closely woven fabric, with even dye coloration. He then held up the cheaper grade which, when they were not side by side, one might think was a beautiful fabric. Each fabric had the Alexander Henry name on the selvage.
Then he put them up side by side: what an obvious difference. The cheaper grade had many misprints in it, the dyes ran together, they were not as vibrant, and when you held it to the light, you could see through it. Why is this? Alexander Henry makes the quilting fabric with the excellent dyes, etc., and is approached by a chain. The chain store says, "I'll give you XX dollars for XX amount of fabric, and I want the same design as this."
The first thing Alexander Henry does is try to determine how to "cut corners" to save money because they can't manufacture the good grade of fabric for the price being offered by the chain store. They select a lower grade of greige (pronounced gray) goods, cheaper dyes, and will probably use a different place to manufacture the fabric where the quality control is not so stringent.
Thus, they can offer the "same fabric" to both the quilt shops and the chain stores, and unless you know your fabric or make a comparison, you think you have just bought a good grade of fabric just because you saw Alexander Henry's name on it. So, beware, just because the fabric has a known name printed in the selvage does not mean that it is a good grade of fabric. Examine your fabrics before purchasing!
This also explains why fabric costs more in quilt shops. They are paying much more for the fabric.
Also, in response to those who state that fabrics made in the 30's and 40's did not fade and held up better than the fabrics of today may be right. Mr. Stewart also explained why this is true. In the 30's, 40's and 50's, there were fewer restrictions on the dyeing process and they could use chemicals which set the dyes. They can no longer use these chemicals and sell the fabric in the United States.
I, too, buy fabrics from the chain stores, but I am also aware of what I am getting. I purchase the majority of my fabric at the quilt shops for several reasons, but three of which are:
1. I don't want them to go out of business. It is a struggle for them to stay in business when competing with the chain stores. The quilt shops are paying more per yard for the fabric then the chain stores sell theirs for. I love going to quilt shops for the support and help I am given and also to see the many samples shown. I get such a warm, happy feeling just walking into a quilt shop and would really miss them if I no longer had the shops to visit.
2. I put a lot of time and effort into the make my quilts using fabrics bought in the quilts that I make, and I want to know that it will last.
3. And for a purely selfish reason: If I don't buy my goods at quilt shops, why should they refer anyone to me to machine quilt their quilts?
So, ladies, remember that most quilt shops owners are not doing this for the money. They are doing it because they love quilting and the nice people you meet. Most quilt shops struggle to pay the overhead and they need our support. We win both ways: by purchasing good fabric and keeping the shops open for our enjoyment!
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